How to Winterize a Hot Tub in Ontario (Or Why You Shouldn't)

Walk through any Hamilton, Burlington, or Ancaster neighbourhood in January and you will see hot tubs running - covers on, steam rising, lights glowing. Winterizing a hot tub in Ontario is the exception, not the rule. The reason is simple: the cost savings rarely justify the risk and hassle, and you lose the use of your hot tub during the months you want it most.

That said, if you are travelling for extended periods, selling your home, or have a situation where the tub genuinely cannot be properly maintained, winterization is the right answer. Here is the honest cost-benefit breakdown.

Running a well-insulated hot tub (like Maple Spas full-foam models) through a Hamilton winter costs approximately $40-$75 per month on Hamilton Hydro rates. That works out to $200-$375 for the five coldest months (November through March).

Winterizing saves that hydro cost but eliminates use from November to March - the months when most hot tub owners actually use their tub most. You also pay for a professional winterization service ($100-$175) unless you do it yourself, and a spring start-up service ($80-$150) to bring it back online properly. Net savings: perhaps $50-$175 over winter, after service costs.

Add the risk factor: improperly winterized hot tubs suffer freeze damage. If any water remains in the plumbing when temperatures drop below -10C, plumbing cracks, heater manifolds split, and jet housings fail. Freeze damage repairs typically run $800-$2,500. One bad winterization wipes out years of hydro savings.

If you are keeping your hot tub running through winter - which we recommend for most owners - a few practices keep costs down significantly.

First, your cover is your biggest heat-retention tool. A quality thermal cover in good condition (no cracks, no waterlogged foam) reduces heat loss by 80% compared to no cover. If your cover is more than 5-7 years old and feels heavy (waterlogged foam), replacing it will pay for itself in hydro savings within one season.

Second, reduce setpoint during periods you are not using the tub. Dropping from 39C to 35C when you know you will not use it for 5+ days reduces heating energy significantly. Do not drop below 28C or the water chemistry balance becomes difficult to maintain.

Third, use your hot tub. This sounds obvious, but the pump running during a soak generates heat inside the cabinet. A tub that is used regularly is actually more energy-efficient than one that sits at setpoint without running.

If you have decided to winterize, here is the proper process. Do not skip steps - the consequences of freeze damage are expensive.

1. 1.Turn off power at the breaker panel (not just the topside controls).
2. 2.Drain all water using the drain valve - position a garden hose to direct water away from the house foundation. This takes 30-60 minutes for a typical hot tub.
3. 3.Use a wet/dry shop vacuum to blow out all jets, diverter valves, and air lines. Blow from the jet faces inward to push any remaining water back through the plumbing.
4. 4.Remove and clean all filter cartridges. Store them indoors.
5. 5.Remove and store all accessories (headrests, cup holder inserts).
6. 6.Leave cabinet doors slightly open to allow airflow and prevent trapped moisture from causing mold.
7. 7.Place your cover and secure it tightly with cover locks.
8. 8.Do not add antifreeze to hot tub plumbing - it is not necessary if the tub is properly blown out and can damage jet internals.

Spring start-up is straightforward if winterization was done correctly. Fill the tub through the filter housing (not the footwell) to reduce air lock risk. Power on and check for any leaks at jet housings and plumbing fittings before bringing up to temperature. Balance chemistry: start with total alkalinity (aim for 80-120 ppm), then pH (7.2-7.8), then sanitizer. Run the jets for 20 minutes to circulate and purge any stale lines.

If you notice reduced jet pressure after winter, check that all diverter valves are open and that no air is trapped in the lines. Most post-winter performance issues resolve themselves after a full heat-up and circulation cycle.